Fantastic Roundtrip North of the Polar Circle in Greenland – for the Happy Hiker

Excursion to Sugar Loaf and the Waterfall

After checking in at the hostel called Old Camp, we will take a trip to the Sugar Loaf Mountain and to the nearby waterfall.

We will be picked up at Old Camp and from here we will drive to Sugar Loaf, located a little outside the town. We now have 3-4 hours to enjoy the view from the top of Sugar Loaf and to see the waterfall. From the top of the mountain, there is a good view of the Arctic tundra with rivers, plains and, possibly, grazing animals on the horizon. Then we descend the mountain. The waterfall is created by melting water from the ice sheet and it is an impressive feeling to be closeby and hear the rumbling of the water.

Apart from the geology talks along the way, you will also get to hear about flora and fauna of the area. We very much hope to encounter some musk oxen while hiking in Kangerlussuaq. These strange-looking creatures are not oxen, but oversized goats. They are unique and wonderful creatures. A group of 27 musk oxen was moved here from Northeast Greenland in the 1960’s, and this has been an overwhelming success. Now, there are thousands of muck oxen in West Greenland. However, don’t forget that Greenland is huge, so there is no guarantee that we get to see these wild-living creatures.

Full day adventure at the Ice Sheet at Point 660 and beyond

Today, on this exciting full-day excursion, we will have 8 hours to explore the Greenland Ice Sheet. The Greenland Ice Sheet covers more than 80 % of the country and nowhere but in Antarctica will you find this much ice in one place. The Ice Cap is 30 kilometers away and the ride there in big specially built vehicles will take you through a beautiful and ever-changing landscape. While you will have green hills on one side, you will get to see an Arctic desert on the side of the truck, complete with tiny tornados that will whirl up the sand. Arriving at the edge of the Ice Cap, we walk from here up onto the beautiful icescape.

The guide will go through the equipment and prepare you for this exciting experience. Point 660 is our starting point for the ice cap ‘mini-expedition’. We put on the backpack and head out on the ice. The Greenland Ice Sheet is an extreme place on Earth, but the area where we will hike is relatively flat and completely stable. If it’s slippery we will wear crampons and use hiking poles, but that is usually not the case as the weather most often is very stable at this time of the year. We start off on our hike and, soon, we begin to understand what fascinated explorers to cross the ice cap.

Don’t forget to bring personal gear for the hike, including sunglasses, sunscreen, a warm jacket and your hiking boots.

In the evening, you can either choose to eat at the club again, or maybe dinner at the hotel's restaurant or cafeteria will tempt you. There is also a supermarket in town, so if you want to cook on your own, that is also an option.

On our third day, we will board one of Air Greenland’s smaller Dash 8 planes and fly to the nearby town of Sisimiut. Sisimiut is the second largest town in Greenland.

This very picturesque town lies just north of the Arctic Circle. Sisimiut is the northernmost town in Greenland to have an ice-free harbor in the wintertime, yet it is also the southernmost town to have sled dogs. In Sisimiut, businesses thrive as do the people of this town. You will meet fishermen and hunters, but also young people who study to become Arctic engineers.   

Sightseeing hike

In Sisimiut we well stay at Hotel Sisimiut. After getting settled, we will go on a sightseeing hike of the town which spreads itself over a very big area for a town with only 5,500 people. We start close to the hotel at the old heliport, which was once an entryway to Sisimiut before the airport was built in 1998. The landing site is now a dog kennel, and the building serves as a youth club. 

On our hike through town will stop at Kalaaliaraq, the local market for freshly caught fish and game. We pass city hall on our way to the southern part of the town. Many of the original hunting and fishing houses can still be seen in this area. Along the way, we will visit the center of town with original buildings from colonial times. Some of the house the local museum and we will visit this.

Tele Island hike

Afterwards, we will hike to the Tele Island or Sallinnguit as it is called in Greenlandic. There is a stark contrast between today’s many telephone communication masts and the many remnants of Inuit life from the last 4,000 years. Your guide will tell you about the area and the life of the Inuit.

At night, you can enjoy a dinner at the hotel’s excellent restaurant, Nasaasaq, named after the tallest mountain towering above Sisimiut. At Taseralik Arts Centre, they offer concerts, plays, films and much more, if you are lucky. The café offers a great view while you have a drink or enjoy your dinner here.

As in all of Greenland, the harbor is bustling with life, especially during summer. Sisimiut is a very important fishing town in Greenland, making this particular harbor quite lively all year round. During summer, the busy fishermen lie side by side with the many yachters who are preparing their boats for weekend and evening outings. This place is where you are headed on your fourth day on this trip. We set off from here in a boat.

Sailing to Assaqutaq and hiking home

We sail from Sisimiut to the abandoned settlement of Assaqutaq, south of Sisimiut. The settlement is situated on a small island and, recently, a bridge was built to the mainland. We will start our hike on the island and then hike across the bridge and head back to Sisimiut. We will be hiking with a day tour backpack. This hike will take us through beautiful valleys, along the water and, finally, we arrive back in Sisimiut. 

Boat trip Along the Coast

Back in Sisimiut, we pick up our stuff from the hotel storage and drive to the harbor once again. This time, we are boarding the boat Sarfaq Ittuk that sails along the western coast of Greenland from Ilulissat in the north to Qaqortoq in the south.

We will stay in couchettes on board the boat. Sailing along the coast is a wonderful experience. On your right-hand side, you will see the rugged coast of Greenland. We are sailing towards Aasiaat, where we will arrive the next morning.

At night, you can enjoy a good dinner onboard the boat. There is usually something happening in the cafeteria and the other common areas on the boat. You will also have an excellent opportunity to meet the local people as a lot of Greenlanders use the ship to visit friends and family in other towns along the coast, especially in the summertime.

Upon arrival in Aasiaat at 8 in the morning, we move our things to the Seamen’s Home. Aasiaat is situated in an archipelago at the southern entrance to the Disco Bay, a place as much beloved by whales as the people who live there. We will go to the Seamen’s Home and drop off our luggage, and then we take a hike through the town. 
A visit to the town’s assembly hall is a must as it is adorned with paintings by the World famous Danish painter Per Kirkeby who once lived here. Aasiaat is a town with a lot of students as there are several educational institutions here. 

Boat trip to Akunnaaq

After the walk around town, it is time to visit a Greenlandic settlement as we call villages in this part of the world. Akunnaaq lies on a small island in the southern region of the Disco Bay. The name of the settlement means The Place with Varied Hunting Possibilities and, true to this, most people in the settlement work in fishing or hunting. We are going to take a walk in the picturesque and interesting village, checking out the church and other buildings. In Akunnaaq, we get to visit a local family and drink some coffee and have some cake. It is a great possibility to get some insight into a life that is so different from most things you know. On the way back to Aasiaat, we will spend some time angling, trying to catch our dinner in the pure Arctic ocean. Top quality fresh fish will be served for dinner if we are lucky.

After some hours in Akunnaaq and fishing, we return by boat to Aasiaat. 

We leave from the harbor in Aasiaat just before noon and go by boat to the Disco Island. We are crossing the Disco Bay through an area, which is a playing ground for seals and whales. We also pass the small group of islands called Kitsissuarsuit, known for its rich bird life. Approaching the Disco Island, you will see the characteristic basalt hills on the horizon. Qeqertarsuaq was formerly known as “the good harbor,” because of its secure location sheltered from the ice and big waves.

Arriving in Qeqertarsuaq, we check in at Hotel Disko/Linda, located in the town center. As with most places in Greenland, this means that it is still right next to the amazing nature. The colorful houses are built near the water where giant icebergs drift by.

After arrival and check-in, we will go sightseeing in the town. Qeqertarsuaq has a little less than 1,000 inhabitants, and as such, it is a lot smaller than Aasiaat and Sisimiut. The town lies on a peninsula, and the main trade is fishing. The current museum used to be the doctor's house, and, at one point, it was the HQ of the governor of Northern Greenland. In Qeqertarsuaq, you can find a supermarket, a post office, a school and a very characteristic church called "The Lord's Inkpot." It’s nicknamed so because if its shape.

Hiking to Qaqqaliaq (The Vantage Point)

The Vantage point, also named Qaqqaliaq, is a beautiful place south of town along the coast. From here, there is a magnificent view of the southern part of Disko Bay. In old times as well as the present, whalers have scouted for whales from this place. Today’s hunters still use it but so do others who wish to enjoy the view of the sea and the animals.

The landscape of Qeqertarsuaq is mainly made by volcanic activity and also has steep basalt hills. The Apostle Hill, the Lyngmark Glacier, and the Cormorant Hill surround Qeqertarsuaq.

The area is ideal for hiking, and today you will set the course towards the Red River and hike along the coast towards Kuannit. Kuannit is a very fertile area where locals find wild growing angelica. There are several hot springs in the area which ensures that plants have great opportunities to grow in this area. 

Along the coast, the landscape is dotted with exciting formations in columnar basalt. In ancient times, burning hot lava has been cooled down by breaking waves, resulting in organic sculptures resembling anything from an elephant to a camel. It is a fun little zoo of exotic animals made in stone.

The hike continues towards the Cormorant Hill and across Peterson's lateral moraine, overlooking “Blæsedal” (the Windy Valley). On your way home to the town, you will walk near the mouth of the Red River with small and large waterfalls. Especially energetic hikers can climb the Cormorant Hill and enjoy the fantastic view towards Ilulissat in the east, The Crown Prince Island to the south and the town of Qeqertarsuaq at the foot of the hill. 

Today we embark on a fantastic sailing trip to the east; this is where you will find the mainland of Greenland and Ilulissat. Ilulissat is the center of tourism in Greenland, and there is a reason for this: it is the birthplace of thousands of the giant icebergs for which Greenland is so well known. We will pass huge icebergs when we cross the bay. We are fast approaching the mouth of Ilulissat Icefjord where we will sail along the icebergs. The glacier at the head of Ilulissat Icefjord is the most productive glacier in the northern hemisphere.

We arrive in Ilulissat at 11:45 after a few hours of sailing. From the harbor, we are transported to the Nuka Hostel where we check in. It is perfectly situated in the town center. After lunch, it’s time to do some more hiking.

5,000 sled dogs live around Ilulissat, and you will notice this very soon. You can see and hear them while you experience the busy town life in Ilulissat with its cultural landmarks. We will walk around town, and some of the highlights are the Zion’s Church, the birthplace of world-renowned Polar explorer Knud Rasmussen (which is now the city museum), and the local fresh food market. It is called Kalaaliaraq (the little Greenlander) and offers different kinds of local specialties, including seal, whale, fish, and birds.

Hike to the Icefjord and the abandoned settlement Sermermiut

From the outskirts of town, we walk to Sermermiut, the remains of an ancient Inuit settlement. From here you have an incredible view of the mouth of the Icefjord. The giant icebergs struggle to get out into the Disco Bay in this fjord as ice is often breaking off at the head of the fjord. When the ice breaks off, it sounds almost like explosions in the otherwise silent surroundings. Sermermiut is a protected area with old ruins and its Inuit history. While we are here, we will hear more about this. 

Remember never to go to close to the water in the ice fjord. It can be very dangerous as the breaking of the calving of icebergs can create enormous waves.

Sailing among the icebergs (Optional)

After dinner, you have the chance to go on a boat trip to the Icefjord. You get close to the enormous icebergs, and you will even be sailing among them, allowing you to experience the different shapes and colors of the ice. Holes, crevices, and melting water shape the icebergs, and if you are lucky, you get to see seals and whales who share your interest in these stunning phenomena of nature (ok, to be truthful, they are probably more interested in the food that they can find close to the icebergs). Since you will be sailing at night, the midnight sun will give a golden hue to the sunny side of the icebergs. It’s so beautiful that you will never forget it.

Ilulissat is an exciting town with a lot of activities. You find a wide selection of souvenir shops in the center of the town. There is a workshop where homemade souvenirs are created, and it is open most of the time. The town museum displays both the history of the town, as well as the story of Arctic explorer Knud Rasmussen and Ilulissat, also has an art gallery with modern Greenlandic art. There is also a fur workshop, producing fine fur coats, mittens, and bags made of sealskin.

If you decide to go on the day trip to Eqi Glacier, you will go sailing once again today.

Day-trip by boat to Eqi Glacier (Optional)

The Eqi Glacier runs into the fjord 80 kilometers north of Ilulissat. By boat, it is possible to get rather close to the 5-kilometer wide glacier and experience huge pieces of ice breaking off. The sounds are thunderous, and the sight of icebergs crashing into the water is astonishing.

We will sail in a modern boat during the excursion to Eqi. The boat will take us north along the coast, passing Bredebugt (The Broad Bay), the settlement of Oqaatsut and the big fjord system called Pakitsoq, where seals and whales are often spotted. 

Further along the trip, we pass through the Ataa Strait which is surrounded by steep mountains with bird life and waterfalls. Arriving at the Eqi Glacier, our boat will remain in front of the glacier for approximately 1-2 hours and wait for the ice to calve. In the meantime, a delicious lunch is served. 

This is an all-day excursion where you will have a good opportunity to immerse yourself into the experience and fully enjoy a boat trip in ice-filled water. The duration of the trip can vary from 6 to 12 hours, depending on which boat will be sailing today.

Today, you will have a day on your own in Ilulissat. You have the time to see more of the town, go on excursions. You can also talk the guide into showing you some more of the surroundings. 

You will have your last dinner in Ilulissat before we set off to the airport at night. It is time to say goodbye to the Disco Bay and Greenland. 

We leave Ilulissat at 9:25 PM, flying to Kangerlussuaq and from here onwards to Copenhagen where you arrive early the next morning.