Qaqortoq

Hot springs, farming and plenty of ice. Your first impression of Qaqortoq is the charming, multicoloured houses by the town’s large harbour entrance. You will also find art, Norse ruins, farmland and Greenland’s only fountain.

Qaqortoq lies in a hollow cut through by a river carrying water from the nearby lake Storesø. The beautiful South Greenland town of Qaqortoq lies well inside the South Greenland fjord system, and here you truly experience the diversity that Greenland has to offer. It is a favourite destination for cruise ships, because here there are picturesque coloured houses, good shops, and art and culture. It is also South Greenland’s centre for trade and education, and a great many young people come here to study.

Qaqortoq was formerly known as Julianehåb in Danish.

Qaqortoq or QAQQRTQQ

Most outsiders find the town’s name hard to pronounce, but it is actually not as difficult as a popular T-shirt once made it out to be. Across the chest it said ‘QAQQRTQQ’, which can sound like non-Greenlanders attempting to say it without help. But the Danish trick is simply to say ‘Gra gror dog’, and you are well on your way.

The hot springs

On a good summer’s day there are lots of children playing in the river. The river runs down through the town or throws itself into Storesø, the lake that lies just behind the town. If you are not quite up for the cold water, Qaqortoq offers a unique opportunity to take a trip down to the hot springs south of the town.

At Uunartoq – ‘the warm one’ in Greenlandic – you can settle into one of nature’s wonders. Here on this small island, water at 38 degrees bubbles up from underground. While the large icebergs drift gently along in the fjord below the springs, you can sit back and be glad you are not splashing around in the cold Storesø.

Stone and Man

When you walk around town, you cannot help noticing the many works of art carved into the rocks. Qaqortoq’s native son and great artist, Aka Høegh, once gathered a large number of artists in the town. Each of them was allowed to leave their mark on the town by creating a work of art in stone. This means there are 40 beautiful works of art around the town, and spotting them has become a real sport.

The square with the fountain

On the square in Qaqortoq – and it is one of the only towns in Greenland that actually has a square – you will find a beautiful fountain built of Igaliku stone. These distinctive stones were brought here from the nearby settlement. The square is surrounded by beautiful houses from the colonial era, housing everything from shops, a bakery and a Thai restaurant to the museum.

You should definitely visit the museum, just as you should drop by the old Church of Our Saviour from 1832, which lies close to the square. Next to the square you should also visit Brættet, the name of the many outlets all over Greenland where you can buy local produce. There are many exciting things to sink your teeth into here if you want to do some cooking yourself.

Do not miss a walk up Vatikanbakken (Vatican Hill). Here, in the best American style, you will find half a car sticking out of the Rockhouse pub. The name Vatikanbakken itself is also a little quirky. A man once lived here who liked to be in charge. So much so that his nickname was the Pope, and from there it was a short step to calling the road Vatican Hill.

Sealskin and souvenirs

Great Greenland is based in Qaqortoq, and here they design and sew the beautiful furs that look stunning on women and men all over the world. Designers such as Benedikte Utzon have created collections for Greenland’s large sealskin sewing workshop, and there are altogether many lovely products to be had here.

It is not only coats and jackets – lovely tops, bags and many other accessories are also produced here.

Hvalsey Church ruin – UNESCO World Heritage

Qaqortoq lies in the area the Norse called the Eastern Settlement. Just an hour’s sail from the town you can visit the Hvalsey Church ruin, by far the best preserved of the many Norse ruins in Greenland. It is wondrous to think that the Norse walked around here in brown clothing over 1,000 years ago.

The Hvalsey Church ruin is the setting for the last account we have of the Norse before their disappearance. The Icelandic sagas tell that a wedding took place in the church in 1408. The early Norse and Inuit areas in South Greenland are today a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Farming

At the agricultural research station near the town, Upernaviarsuk, they experiment with tomatoes, strawberries and cucumbers. Many of the town’s garden owners also take great pride in showing off beautiful, lush gardens. All in all, things are lush wherever you look in summer, whether planted by people or by Greenlandic nature itself.

Hiking

There are many hiking opportunities in Qaqortoq. You can walk a great deal around the town, which keeps growing, or take a tour of the nearby mountain tops. If you like longer trips, it is possible to hike to Igaliku, which is about five days’ walk from the town. You can also sail (or in winter fly by helicopter) to the neighbouring town of Narsaq, where there is ample opportunity for many beautiful walks in one of Greenland’s most beautifully situated towns. Nor is it far to the Ice Sheet by boat from Narsaq.